Exploring Camp Verde

Growing up in a pioneer farming settlement with the last of the pioneer generation, I have always appreciated history, and I love to hear the stories of the people who committed their lives to creating and sustaining a community. When I moved down from Washington state, which is steeped in famous historical tales and heroes, I was disappointed to see that Arizona appeared to be too “modern” to really appreciate its historical background. But now that I’ve lived here for almost 18 years, I can confidently state that it’s not that it’s too modern, but it’s such a melting pot of people coming from all over the world. Not many people pause and ask, “Who was here first? What contributions and achievements resulted because of their presence?” Therefore, when I visited Camp Verde the first time in 1999 and saw Montezuma Castle, I knew this town had to have some amazing historical stories. I have come back several times every since, to explore different areas of this almost-forgotten little hamlet found directly between Phoenix and Flagstaff, Arizona.

Let’s start off with exploring Ryal Canyon…

At first glance, it appears that there aren’t a lot of hiking opportunities in Camp Verde. Hiking is usually the avenue for my appreciation of the historical significance of a location, and I happened to stumble across Ryal Canyon when searching for a different hike. As Camp Verde is in the Verde Valley, surrounded by the Mogollon Rim, it is centered in the bottom of a bowl shape. The Ryal Canyon is one area that rises out of the bowl, and you can’t miss it by its white rock formations. The trail begins with a level quarter-mile path that showcases the white cliffs ahead. Then there is a steep 600-foot climb up the side of the canyon for a half mile. Be prepared for the loose rocks and unforgiving incline!! I almost never use hiking poles, but this is a trail that almost requires them. It continues to climb to over 1700 feet in elevation throughout its 2.6 course, ending when it junctions with Trail 521. The positives of this hike would be:

• Views of the north wall of Ryal Canyon

• Views of Lucky Canyon and Copper Canyon

• Views of Camp Verde, Sedona, and the Verde River

So what’s the historical significance of Ryal Canyon? It is a geological marvel which delights the Arizona rockhounds! Its colorful cliffs are created by sediments of clay, salt, and gypsum. Historically, its creation dates back to the same time of the formation of the Grand Canyon. It was created by an ancient lake that ebbed and flowed between 10 and 2 million years ago. The sign at the trailhead mentioned that dinosaurs may have roamed in this region because of the lake!

Let’s move on to General Crook’s Trail…

While studying for my history degree, I focused on Native American history. Since then, I’ve been very sensitive to how history books portrayed Native Americans, and especially empathetic to how the indigenous tribes unfairly lost their rights to the land that they respected and nurtured. Looking back, I am curious how our planet would be right now if they weren’t forced off their land? I’m thinking it would a much healthier environment…

I wanted to start off with my appreciation and respect to the indigenous people of North America, because my next historical stop in Camp Verde is about the Apache Wars with General Crook. I am in no way condoning any capture of Native Americans, but simply retelling the story.

While looking for the Copper Canyon Trail in Camp Verde, I stumbled across the General Crook Trail, and decided to hike it instead. It was pretty disappointing, and I would not recommend it due to the road noise from I-17 and the OHV which dominated the trail. I had to keep hopping off to avoid being hit by dirt bikes as well. But the history of the General Crook trail is quite fascinating.

Let’s begin with General Crook. After Lewis and Clark’s expedition to the West, General Crook was one of the military leaders who led successful campaigns against the Shoshone, Nez Perce, and other tribes in Washington, Oregon, and California. But when the Civil War began, he went back to the East to fight the Confederates. Crook took part in the Shenandoah Valley campaign, and was captured by Confederate guerrillas but was exchanged after a month. After his Civil War service, Crook became lieutenant colonel and was sent back to successfully subdue Native American tribes in the Pacific Northwest for two years. Then President Ulysses S. Grant personally placed Crook in charge of the Arizona Territory. His mission was to end the fighting between the Apaches and the settlers, resulting in moving the Apaches onto reservations.

The Apache Campaign began in Tucson as General Crook launched a 675-mile expedition into enemy territory. He had five full companies of cavalry and Apache scouts. General Crook strived for compromise and peace when holding council with the Apache chiefs. He wanted to provide work opportunities for the Natives as he knew more settlers were coming to take their land. He created an irrigation project and equal pay for the Natives who worked for him. Crook opposed sending Native American children to boarding schools in the East, but couldn’t get schools established on the reservations. During this campaign, General Crook was condemned by Arizona citizens who wanted the Apaches exterminated, not included in their society.

In 1882, General Crook was back in the Arizona Territory, trying to round up the Apaches who fled the reservations, resuming a guerrilla war under the leadership of Chiricahua Geronomio. This lasted for four years, with a cycle of surrender and escape by Geronomio. The General Crook Trail was used to transport troops and supplies from Fort Whipple in Prescott, through the Verde Valley by way of the Copper Canyon, and making its way across Clear Creek and up the Mogollon Rim. You can see historical evidence of this trail on FS 300, otherwise known as the “Rim Road,” which has a series of cabins that the soldiers and suppliers used while traveling along the Mogollon Rim.

Our historic tour concludes with the Verde River…

Camp Verde’s unique historic charm wouldn’t be complete without Verde River. It has served several populations throughout time, including the Sinagua Native American tribe.

The Sinagua people moved down to Camp Verde after the eruption of Sunset Crater around 1064 AD. They are well-known for their cultural expression during the “Elden phase,” found in their pueblo architecture, baskets, and pottery. The Sinagua culture flourished as their land was an important stop in the trade network between Mexico and the Four Corners. Archaeologists have found shells, copper bells, and macaw bones from Mexico. The pueblo structures, hand ball courts, and kivas were similar to the Ancestral Puebloans. Montezuma Castle, found close to the Verde River, was created during this time.

Montezuma Castle is a cliff-dwelling, spanning about 4,000 square feet. The limestone-and-mud structure includes 20 rooms. Therefore it’s more like an indigenous apartment building, which housed about 30-50 people. It’s been preserved and can be viewed today, protected by the National Parks Service.

The disappearance of the Sinagua tribe is a mystery. By 1425, the farmers of Verde Valley had abandoned their castles. Historians and archaeologists can’t exactly pinpoint the cause of the decline of this tribe, but it appears that drought, disease, war, and clashing with other tribes were the leading causes.

Throughout all this the Verde River flowed, and is still flowing today. After the Sinagua disappeared, the settlers appeared and mined the copper, gold, and silver found in that area. The Verde River provided valuable water, fish, and fowl for these settlements. It flows 195 miles, from an area southwest of Flagstaff all the way to its confluence with the Salt River near Phoenix. Rare plants grow along the Verde River: Verde Valley sage, Ripley wild buckwheat and Arizona cliff rose. There are only 20 Fremont Cottonwood forests in the world, and the Verde River nourishes one of them in Arizona!!

One of the few hiking trails that accesses the Verde River is the Towel Creek Trail. The trailhead is located on FR 708 (the Fossil Springs Road). The trail begins with a jeep path for a couple of miles before moving down to the river. There is an ancient Sinagua cliff dwelling on the north side of the trail, found right before reaching the river. It’s 12 miles round-trip, and can be very hot and miserable during the summer months. I hiked it once with my son (when he was much younger), and it involved a lot of complaining. We never made it to the ruins, but I would try it again!

Camp Verde is such an interesting combination of history and nature. I hope that you will explore it one day as well!